Where to Eat in Genoa

 Want to enrich your trip to Slow Fish with a gastronomic tour of Genoa? Here’s where to find the best examples of the local cuisine—even if it’s just a snack—and enjoy the atmosphere of this beautiful city.

The restaurants, osterias and eateries listed below are all featured in Osterie d’Italia (Slow Food Editore), the annual guide to the Slowest and best culinary experiences in Italy.

OSTERIAS

Da Ö Colla
Via alla Chiesa di Murta, 10
Tel. 010 7408579
Opening hours: dinner, but lunchtime only on Sunday
Closed on Monday and Tuesday
Price: €35-38 per person, excluding wine

An osteria with a long history and old traditions, located on the Murta hill in Val Polcevera, just a few minutes from downtown Genoa. Though the osteria is closely linked to the local area and its products, it began a process of “moderated modernity” in the 1990s. The menu is predominantly influenced by the seasonality of the ingredients. As spring bursts forth the contribution of vegetables is particularly important, whether in stuffed pasta, fresh pesto or minestrone. Among the specialties are the cod fishcakes, baked rice, the vitello tonnato, a plate of thinly-sliced veal with tuna mayonnaise, and the brandacujun, a dish of mashed potatoes and stockfish. The wine list has a rich variety of reds, and mainly Ligurian whites, all with a low mark-up.

Da Pippo
Salita Chiesa di Fontanegli, 13 R
Tel. 010 809351
Opening hours: lunch and dinner
Closed on Monday
Price: €27-30 per person, excluding wine

Patience is needed to scale the winding road up the Val Bisagno to Fontanegli, where the Villa family has been welcoming adventurous travelers for over 150 years. The ingredients used in the kitchen also come from Val Bisagno, and the vegetables are grown in the family garden. Rigorous attention to seasonality and respect for Ligurian traditions are the foundations of the cuisine. There’s an amuse-bouche of panissa (slices of fried chickpea flour) and frisceu (herb fritters). The mixed antipasto includes stuffed vegetables, cured meats, torta pasqualina (Easter cake), a sort of savory strudel stuffed with green vegetables, and fried anchovies. The main event are surely the homemade pasta dishes, served as a first course. Among the second courses is the traditional and hard-to-find cima. There is no wine list: the host will recommend a bottle from their wide selection.

Il Genovese
Via Galata, 35 R
Tel. 010 8692937
Opening hours: lunch only
Closed on Sunday
Price: €25-32 per person, excluding wine

The Panizza brothers manage this small osteria in the center of Genoa, close to Brignole railway station. The menu reflects the authentic Genoese gastronomic tradition, highlighing local herbs and vegetables, poultry and rabbit meat, stockfish, cod and anchovies. The fried antipasti are highly recommended, including the tripe, milk fritters and the panissa. Their basil pesto, made with pestle and mortar in the traditional fashion, is an excellent accompaniment for the potato gnocchi, linguine and the minestrone. Following that, the tripe, stockfish, and succulent rabbit roasted with olives and pine nuts are all memorable. Wine list offers good value for money.

La Forchetta Curiosa
Piazza Negri, 5 R
Tel. 010 2511289
Opening hours: lunch and dinner, every day
Price: €35-38 per person, excluding wine

La Forchetta Curiosa (The Curious Fork) has long been one of Genoa’s surefire options because unlike most restaurants, it never closes. Many ingredients from Slow Food Presidia are present on the menu. A smaller choice of dishes is available at lunch, while at dinner there are more contemporary takes on classic Ligurian dishes, including a salad of octopus, bacon, ginger and taggiasca olives. The squid-ink rice with cheese and pepper is also particularly “curious”. Ligurian classics such as the cappon magro, an elaborate stack of seafood and vegetables, are also available. The wine list offers a wide range of biodynamic and natural wines from across Italy.

Mangiabuono
Vico Vegetti, 3 R
Tel. 010 2530501
Opening hours: lunch and dinner
Closed on Saturday at lunch and all day on Sunday
Price: €23-30 per person, excluding wine

There’s no sign outside this small family-run restaurant in the heart of Genoa’s old town. The owner, Maurizio Tavella, chooses the ingredients that his sister Marina uses in the kitchen to recreate the taste of their ancient family recipes. Though you can’t reserve a table in advance, the opening hours are longer than average. If there’s no table available when you arrive, take a seat at the bar with a glass of wine and a plate of fried ravioli while you wait. The pesto linguine with potatoes and green beans is unmissable, as are the borage-stuffed ravioli. Second courses are equally appealing, and include a soup of tripe, potatoes and beans, fried anchovies and squid, and garlic-fried beef liver. The wine list offers local, national and international bottles, some of them available by the glass.

Ostaia de Banchi
Vico Denegri, 17 R
Tel. 010 8540468
Opening hours: lunch and dinner
Closed on Sunday evening and all day on Monday
Price: €30-35 per person, excluding wine

The history of this restaurant stretches back almost 500 years, as the sign above the door reading “1528” indicates. Located just behind the Old Port, a few steps away from Slow Fish, the Ostaia de Banchi is now run by three young friends who gave up their jobs to take over this truly historic locale and keep the tradition alive. Freshness is the key word, and the menu often changes according to what is available at the market and from their local suppliers. The bread is homemade. At lunchtime a set menu of two seafood dishes and a glass of wine costs just €15, while a slightly wider range of options is available at dinner. Seafood is at the forefront of the offering, whether in the elaborate cappon magro, the stuffed squid, or the lemon-cured anchovies. The homemade gnocchi with locally-caught fish and mussels are also recommended. Beyond seafood, the traditional Ligurian dish of rabbit with olives and pine nuts is also available. The wine list is predominantly Ligurian, with lots of biodynamic labels.

Rosmarino
Salita del Fondaco, 30
Tel. 010 2510475-339 8301524
Opening hours: lunch and dinner
Closed on Sunday
Price: €30-35 per person, excluding wine

A slightly more elegant atmosphere than your average modern osteria, though the ambiance is certainly relaxing. This is Rosmarino, a welcoming restaurant just a few steps from the Doge’s Palace in the heart of the city. The menu is written on blackboards hung on the walls. The antipasti include the brandacujun, a dish of mashed potatoes and stockfish, cuttlefish with tomato and zucchini, and a kind of vegetable souffle. As for first courses dishes, you’ll find fish ravioli, spaghetti with anchovies, crumbed prawns, and tagliatelle with a bolognese sauce. The classic seaside second course—the day’s catch—sits alongside more adventurous choices on the menu, such as duck breast with caramelized shallots. The wine list has a wide range of local bottles.

Vegia Òstàia Da O Pöulu
Via Superiore Gazzo, 30
Tel. 392 9473588
Opening hours: lunch and dinner
Closed on Tuesday
Price: €30-32 per person, excluding wine

A classic countryside trattoria, located among the hills of Sestri Ponente, about half an hour from the city center. You can get here easily enough by train, as Genova Costa di Sestri Ponente station is just meters away. There are only a few tables in this informal, family-run restaurant, where the menu is written on the wall. The culinary offering, which is a little more varied at dinner, is densely packed with tradition. Begin with the antipasto of farinata (chickpea flour pancake) and herb fritters. Traditional homemade pasta dishes like linguine with pesto, potatoes, green beans and pine nuts do not disappoint, though the ravioli stuffed with borage and beef sauce are particularly divine. Among the second courses, it’s worth mentioning the tripe with potatoes, the cuttlefish with artichokes, and the stockfish with taggiasca olives and pine nuts. Your hosts will recommend a bottle of wine from among a small but respectable list of local labels.

TAKE OUT

Antica Sciamadda
Via San Giorgio, 14 R
Tel. 010 2468516
Opening hours: 10.00 a.m.-2.30 p.m. / 5.30 p.m.-7.30 p.m.
Closed on Sunday and holidays

A small and fascinating hole-in-the-wall where the wood-fired ovens are always on. Meatloaf, soups, quiche, boiled stockfish, cod fishcakes and tripe can all be taken away or, if you desire, eaten standing up.

L’Angolo della Farinata
Via Boccadasse, 67 R
Tel. 010 3760174
Opening hours: 10.00 a.m.-2.30 p.m. / 5.00 p.m.-8.30 p.m.
Closed on Saturday and Sunday

As well as farinata (the traditional Genoese chickpea flour pancake), there are quiches made with rice and vegetables, meatloaf, herb fritters and stuffed vegetables. Take-out portions of local specialties are also available, including minestrone, pesto lasagna, chickpea stew, fried anchovies, stockfish and cod.