If you’re planning to stay in Genoa for a few days and want to explore beyond the Porto Antico and Slow Fish, then here are some of the finest places to eat out around town.

The following restaurants are all featured in the annual Slow Food guide to Italian osterie.

Explore the alleyways of the old city and the hills of the inland suburbs!

Where to eat

Da Pippo

Salita Chiesa di Fontanegli, 13R

Tel. +39 010 809351

Open for lunch and dinner every day except Monday

We are in the heights of the Bisagno Valley, where the sea seems so far away. Here you can experience true Genoese cuisine, made of vegetables, herbs and meats. In the garden and in the cozy and spacious dehors one enjoys the simplicity and beauty of this restaurant, which has been a Slow Food favorite for many years.

The meal opens with a plate of warm fried panissette and homemade sage focaccia. This is followed by fassona tartare, fried anchovies, leek flan, Pippo’s antipasto misto, then taglierini and ravioli al tuccu genovese, pansotti in walnut sauce, and the inevitable pesto lasagna. Main courses include fritto misto alla genovese (consisting of meats, vegetables and desserts), stockfish salad, roasted veal nut and, if you are lucky, the legendary cima. It closes with baci di dama, panna cotta and pistachio cheesecake.

Il Genovese

Via Galata, 35R

Tel. +39 010 8692937

Open for lunch and dinner every day except Sunday

Strategically located for public transport: there are bus, train, subway stop no more than 500 meters away. The osteria is spread over two floors connected by a spiral staircase, and the ambiance is informal and cozy. You can sit in the dehors in the adjacent Piazza Colombo, next to a restored barchile (horse trough) from 1643.

Slow Food Presidia such as cabannina meat, Vessalico garlic and rose syrup are used. The offerings range from Levante to Ponente, embracing all of Liguria. Under the direction of Roberto Panizza, assisted by his brother Sergio and Dario Fichera, traditional dishes such as fried tripe, chestnut flour trofie and testaroli from Lunigiana seasoned with pesto, croxetti with pine nut sauce, goat with Pigna beans, cabannina ravioli with tuccu genovese, and stoccafisso are prepared.

Il Michelaccio

Via Frugoni, 49

Tel. +39 010 5704274

Open for lunch and dinner Monday to Friday. Saturday dinner only. Closed on Sunday

Beautiful restaurant with a unique design located five minutes from the central Via XX Settembre. The atmosphere is informal but refined, the wait staff is friendly, very knowledgeable and professional. The natural and biodynamic wine list is interesting and well-stocked, and the judicious selection of juices and spirits is equally remarkable.

Imagination and style distinguish Fabio Fauraz’s cuisine, where scents and flavors of spices from distant lands combine with those of Genoese and Ligurian tradition. The ever-changing menu is displayed on a blackboard, but pesto is never lacking. Stand out courses include sardenaria, porca pancetta (a cured meat they make in-house), lukewarm spaghetti with mussels, pepper and lemon, tripe ramen, minestrone alla genovese, lettuces in broth, brandacujon, calamarata alla genovese with octopus, and old-fashioned beef battuta. At dessert time, don’t miss the panera.

La Forchetta Curiosa

Piazza Negri, 5R

Tel. +39 010 2511289

Open for lunch and dinner every day, but only for lunch on Sunday

This lively contemporary osteria, next to stradone Sant’Agostino, opposite the museum of the same name and the Teatro della Tosse, reflects the personality of owner Roberto Gillo whose artistic influence extends to the kitchen where original dishes are made with local ingredients.

The breaded and fried anchovies, opened “by the book,” are a classic, but the reinterpretations range from appetizers to dessert: the capponadda with added bottarga, the baccalà mantecato with pesto and taggiasche crumble, the spaghettone senatore Cappelli with octopus amatriciana, the fried squid and panissa (chickpea flour dough), the cuttlefish with caper puree and crispy friggitelli. For dessert, the prescinsêua mousse and the cubeletto (pastry basket usually filled with apricot jam, here replaced by fresh fruit). Extensive wine cellar, exclusively dedicated to natural wines.

La Lanterna

Salita San Siro, 12R

Tel. +39 010 4075543

Open for lunch every day, from Thursday to Saturday also open for dinner, closed on Sunday

From Piazza Fossatello, stepping into the alleyway of San Siro (leading to the basilica of the same name), one encounters this old osteria. It is run by Andrea Cogorno, a very talented chef with a very high-level past in Genoese catering. Three small rooms with well-spaced tables, simple ambience as befits an establishment in the port area, and moderate prices.

Tradition and territory are the common thread in Andrea’s cooking: trofie with pesto sauce with potatoes and green beans, pansotti in walnut sauce, minestrone, panissa salad, tripe, accommodated stockfish, anchovy bagnun, fried anchovies, shrimp and squid are the most usual offerings, but the chef’s flair and the morning visit to the dock to get supplies from the trusted fishing boat, give rise to extemporaneous and equally inviting proposals such as the fresh taglierino verde with cherry tomatoes and white sea bream, ennobled by a wonderful extra virgin olive oil from Imperia.

La Voglia di Genova – A Coae de Zena

Salita Coccagna, 10R

Tel. +39 010 0926699

Open for dinner every day, also open for lunch from Friday to Sunday. Closed on Monday

Sympathy, hospitality and authenticity is what we find in one of the most charming alleys of the historic center. Maurizio and Enrica, great supporters of tradition, offer quality cuisine made with a lot of experience. The osteria has brick and stone vaults; in summer they also set up a dehors in the pretty little Coccagna square.

The bread, focaccia and fresh pasta are homemade. Opening with fried panissa, a mix of local artisanal cured meats, anchovies in scabeccio, onion and prescinsêua bundle on parmesan sauce. To follow, trenette avvantaggiate seasoned with pesto, ravioli with tuccu genovese, pansotti in walnut sauce, taglierini with octopus tuccu and basil cream. Always present is Ligurian-style rabbit. The brandacujun and capponadda are not to be missed: the latter, prepared with fresh tuna instead of canned tuna, is unparalleled. Among the desserts to try are the canestrelli.

Macelli 44 – Agri-bistrot

Via dei Macelli di Soziglia, 48-50R

Tel. +39 010 403848

Open for lunch and dinner from Wednesday to Saturday. Lunch only on Sunday

With the dream of reclaiming abandoned land in the Genoa hinterland, a group of 20 people founded the Monte di Capenardo Agricultural Cooperative back in 1983. Areas were reclaimed where animals now graze in the wild, fully respecting the sustainability of the environment. To date there are more than 150 hectares of pasture, with different varieties of animals, mostly cattle.

The osteria is located in the heart of Maddalena, right in the historic center. Stefano Chellini’s offering features a variety of meat, and a network of organic producers, who share the same ideals as the cooperative, supply the bistro with vegetables, wine, and oil. Completing the offerings are crostini, charcuterie boards and organic cheeses, carpaccio, battuta al coltello simple, with pecorino cheese fondue or with mayonnaise and anchovies, homemade desserts such as bavarese and biancomangiare.

Mangiabuono

Vico Vegetti, 3R

Tel. +39 010 2530501

Open for lunch and dinner from Monday to Friday, dinner only on Saturday, closed on Sunday

This small place represents the classic osteria of days gone by, with small tables, fast and informal service, and lots of attention to old recipes and simple but not trivial preparations. Characteristic is the spartan outdoor space that allows service even in the colder months.

The gastronomic proposal is not aimed at seafood lovers, but at those who know that the cuisine in Genoa is purely land-based: the only concessions to the sea are anchovies prepared in various ways and stockfish. Otherwise, the minestrone with pesto, testaroli, ravioli al tocco, taglierini verdi and, for main course, the not-to-be-missed cima with Russian salad, fegato a l’aggiadda, tripa alla genovese, braised meat with mashed potato, and rabbit Ligurian style stand out. Finish with fresh fruit tarts, Moscato zabaglione, chocolate cake or apple and Calvados ice cream.

Ostaia a Ribotta

Salita San Gerolamo, 2R

Tel. +39 010 2513828

Open for dinner every day except Monday. Also open for lunch on Saturday and Sunday

For more than 30 years Gianluca has been a key player in Genoese eno-gastronomy; he was among the first to educate young people about good drinking. Today the osteria’s wine cellar has about 500 labels offered at an excellent price. The ambiance is simple, well-kept and very hospitable. It is priceless to eat in the dehors during the flowering period of the old wisteria.

Michela prepares curated traditional dishes: Battuta di fassona, cappon magro and stuffed mussels are great to start. This is followed by traditional chestnut gnocchetti with pesto, borage ravioli al tocco, and original black trofie with squid. Swordfish tomaxelle are an interesting take on tradition; alternatively, breaded and fried anchovies, fritto misto or squid stuffed with spring onion and fava beans. In closing, the chocolate and coffee marquise and the tart with lemon cream and raspberries are worthwhile.

Ostaia de Banchi

Vico Denegri, 17R

Tel. +39 010 8540468

Open for lunch and dinner from Tuesday to Saturday. Lunch only on Sunday

Who knows how many stories this osteria would have to tell from its 600 years of existence! Today we marvel at Sergio and Stefano’s passion for cooking and food and wine traditions: in their dishes we find the taste of ancient recipes from both land and sea. Sergio takes care of the dining room and the wine list: well-selected natural Ligurian labels.

The bread and focaccia are homemade. In the open kitchen, Stefano expertly transforms fish from the Ligurian Sea into soups, sauces and main courses, based on what the local market offers. The same philosophy goes into making succulent tripe salad, mandilli col pesto and rabbit Ligurian style, with meticulous research of small producers in the area. The cappon magro and stoccafisso al verde are also deserving. The tiramisu here is transformed: prescinsêua takes the place of mascarpone and the dessert becomes prescinsù, truly enjoyable. Also notable is the herb luisa and zabaglione cake.

Rosmarino

Salita del Fondaco, 30

Tel. +39 010 2510475-339 8301524

Open for lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday. Closed on Sunday

A stone’s throw from Piazza De Ferrari, this small, well-kept establishment is a modern restaurant that revisits Genoese tradition with a menu that varies according to season. The rotation of daily dishes also designed for their recurring clientele is pleasant. During the summer, service extends outside, overlooking the city’s most famous fountain.

Traditional and modern recipes are prepared here by Alessandro, including brandacujun, fassona tartare with prescinsêua and hazelnuts, mushroom flan with toma cheese fondue, cundigiun, and crispy vitello tonnato. Rosemary lasagna and trofie pasta with Genoese pesto are always present too. For second course the Ligurian-style veal asado and squid skewers are a real treat. Excellent in closing are the marinated pineapple, raspberry creamy fondant, and canestrelli with raisin wine.

Sa Pesta

Via dei Giustiniani, 16R

Tel. +39 010 2468336

Open for lunch only from Monday to Saturday

As soon as you look out the front door, you can already sense the “double soul” of this tavern of ancient tradition, as you catch a glimpse of the imposing refractory brick wood-burning oven, the realm of Paolo Benvenuto, who prepares farinata and many other dishes here. In the dining room, Antonella (Paolo’s sister) coordinates the service, while in the kitchen is her husband, Riccardo Fanciulli.

Farinata, potato and green bean meatloaf, vegetable pies and fillings, and stuffed or breaded anchovies all feature in a very inviting “misto forno” served as an entrée or main course. In addition, or as an alternative, there is no shortage of traditional Genoese first and second courses: minestrone, pasta with pesto, stewed tripe, cima, stockfish, and an original codfish with olives, pine nuts, marjoram, and prescinsêua. Good in summer is the vitello tonnato. Wines are predominantly Ligurian.

Trattoria delle Grazie

Via delle Grazie, 48

Tel. +39 010 8698240

Open for lunch and dinner from Thursday to Sunday, dinner only on Monday and Tuesday

In an alley a stone’s throw from Piazza Cavour, near the Old Port, this osteria has stone and brick vaults that immediately catch the eye: buildings that are centuries old hold many establishments like this one. The decor is simple and cozy. In addition to tables, there is a central counter with a central copper hood where you can share your meal with other guests.

Here you can enjoy the most classic Genoese cuisine. The offerings vary according to the changing seasons. The cima and stuffed lettuces are an unfailing certainty. Fresh pastas are homemade: these include mandilli de saèa with pesto, black taglierini with mussel sauce, and pansotti in walnut sauce. Next, try cappon magro, cod fritters, breaded and stuffed anchovies, tripe stew, Vecchia Genova stockfish, and stracotto alla genovese. Desserts are homemade.

Vegia òstàia da o Poulu

Via Superiore Gazzo, 30

Tel. +39 392 9473588

Open for dinner from Wednesday to Sunday, also open for lunch from Saturday to Monday

The Gaione family firmly runs this small osteria on the heights of Sestri Ponente. Roberto runs the dining room, while his brother Maurizio bakes bread and crispy farinata in the wood-fired oven, and their parents Giuliana and Gianfranco are at the stove, all making for a simple, full-flavored cuisine. In summer, tables are placed on the lawn adjacent to the restaurant.

The shopping is done daily and, depending on the ingredients on offer, the menu is tacked together. The appetizer usually consists of a sampling of brandacujun, sardenaira, farinata and marinated anchovies. Pastas are hand-rolled by Roberto: try the ravioli with a very slow-cooked toccu, pansotti in walnut sauce, or cappelletti with white sauce. Pesto is never lacking. Alternatively, the minestrone and spaghetti with anchovy sauce are good. Stuffed rabbit, accommodated stockfish, breaded anchovies, stuffed sabrina follow. Homemade desserts: excellent lemon and meringue pie and tart.

Slow Fish 2023 is organized by Slow Food and the Liguria Region, with the support of the City of Genoa. We’re in the Porto Antico of Genoa from June 1-4. Sign up to the Slow Food newsletter for the latest updates. #SlowFish2023

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